Impressions from the road: foie from Black Forest (Germany)

31 Dec

There are a couple of foods, which when very fresh, become qualitatively different in texture. These are the grace notes of haute cuisine: you find them only once in a while, even at the top restaurants.

In recent memory, I’ve had two such experiences with familiar ingredients that become different. The first were live and hand-dived scallops at Hedone (London), which took on a crunchy texture when they had just been killed.

The second is foie from the Black Forest in Germany at a pair of 3-starred restaurants in Baiersbronn (Bareiss and Schwarzwaldstube). What I find irresistible is the membranous texture present in their fried-foie, which has a spongey, springy texture. Their preparations are simply some of the best I’ve tried.

DSC05477

Variation of goose foie gras with Williams Pear soaked in red wine and wintery spicy punch

BAREISS

DSC05579

Terrine de foie gras marinée et grillée,
dans une gelée au Jurancon,
avec coulis des kumquats,
vinaigrette aux pignons de pins

Terrine of foie gras and toast,
in a Jurancon jelly,
with kumquats,
vinaigrette and pine nuts

SCHWARZWALDSTUBE


 

Due to a snafu (my leaving my photos-processing computer back at home), full reviews of restaurants on my trip will be postponed until after the New Years.

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