Archive | July, 2014

Akelarre | San Sebastián | Jun ’14 | “not a fan”

31 Jul
  • Rating: 13/20
  • Address: Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56, 20008 San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain
  • Phone: +34 943 31 12 09
  • Price per pax: €190 ($255 at 1 EUR = 1.35 USD)
  • Value: 1/5
  • Dining time: 150 minutes
  • Chef: Pedro Subijana
  • Style: Modernist
  • Michelin Stars: 3

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I have two warnings to gourmet-travellers who are considering whether or not to go to Akelarre.

The first is that the Classics menu is a relative disappointment. Akelarre offers three menus, one based on seafood (Aranori), one based on meat (Bekarki)*, and one a series of Akelarre’s Classics. I ordered the Classics menu, thinking it was a menu of signature dishes. Akelarre has a reputation for turning out creative dishes, and I was hoping to get a meal featuring its creative signatures. I found it to be more Classic in the other sense**, with a very classical dish profile (risotto, pasta, beef, lobster salad). Yes, there were some interesting twists on them – a foie-oxtail tiramisu was interesting – but generally they seemed needless elaboration on top of the classical flavor profile. I was disappointed in the Classics menu, and I think I would have enjoyed myself much more with the other two menus, which seemed more creative, as I found out over lunch by noticing what the other tables were being served.

*(Reference: Entry on “Akelarre”, Where Chefs Eat, Joe Warwick,)

**(This double-meaning seems accidental, for that menu is indeed a compilation of Akelarre hits that have graced the Aranori and Bekarki menus in previous years. They seem to have selected a conservative set of dishes as their “classics”.)

The second is a warning about ingredients. I was served frisee leaves in the lobster salad, that had clearly reddened at its stems. This is a tell-tale sign of old-leaves that have been prepped a long time in advance (maybe hours or days ahead, who knows.) That it made its way to my plate is either a failure of Quality Control from the kitchen, or ridiculously zealous cost-saving from the kitchen. Neither reflects well on Akelarre. I choose to believe the former, since the whole raison d’etre of haute-cuisine is to sample great ingredients, or at very least, better-than-normal ones. I hope my dish was an isolated lapse from the kitchen, and that this is not a systemic pattern at the restaurant.

My meal here plodded with the ordinary. It was less accomplished than a disappointing Arzak meal I had the previous day. While I might return to savour the view (Akelarre is situated beautifully on the Basque shore), I would not order the Classics menu, and in the mean I hope Mr Subijana can ensure that less-than-optimal ingredients will not leave his kitchen.

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  • Sea Garden
    • Prawn’s Sand (4.5/5)
      • Delicious. Sweet, salty, prawny
    • Oyster Leaf.
      • with local wine jelly. Tasting remarkably like oyster.
    • Mussel with “Shell” (4.75/5)
      • Shell of cocoa butter
    • Sea Urchin’s Sponge
    • Beach Pebbles (Shallot and Corn) (4.5/5)
      • Nice corn flavor
    • Codium Seaweed Coral (goose barnacles tasting tempura) (4.5/5)
      • Supposedly tasting like percebes.
      • Good

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  • Lobster salad with Cider vinegar (4.25/5)
    • The lobster was well-prepared, savory and appropriate on the lobster claw, tail and other assorted parts. The whole emphasis on the luxury-ingredient, lobster, made it seem like hotel cuisine.
    • Upon inspection however, I found oxidised salad leaves. Not just one, but multiple oxidised leaves, the red ends of which were not trimmed. That this found its way to my plate in a 3* restaurant is very questionable. Presumably, Chef Subijana does not intend to send out days-old frisee salad leaves (after all, they are one of the cheapest ingredients, a fraction above the price of air). Who then prepares the salad leaves? His sous chef? And how can Mr Subijana allow this dish, using clearly old salad leaves to leave the kitchen? I am forced to conclude that either the Quality Control of the kitchen has dropped, or Akelarre is economising on even the cheapest ingredients (then how can a diner trust that the kitchen is providing the best?)
    • Neither possibility reflects well on the kitchen. This is not a failure of technique (which would be understandable), but of ingredient-quality, the foundation of haute-cuisine. That the days-old leaves made it to my plate, would be questionable at any Michelin-starred restaurant. Even more so at 3* Akelarre.
    • Very disappointing.

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Reddened stems

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  • Pasta, Piquillo and Ibérico Carpaccio, Mushrooms and Parmesan (4.25/5)
    • A carpaccio of pasta, not entirely successful, for the dough-sheet had a starchy texture in the middle, probably a bit undercooked.
    • The truffle had little taste (understandably, given they were not Australian truffles and we were in June), but was redeemed by the earthier dark mushrooms.

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  • Rice with Snails and Periwinkles in Tomato and Basil Film (3.5/5)
    • Carnaroli rice.
    • A lukewarm risotto rice, a bit crunchy, seemingly undercooked, with some sausage-like meat (periwinkles and snails).

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  • Whole-Grain Red Mullet with Sauce “Fusilli” (3.75/5)
    • Red mullet fillet, head and bone praline, liver and onion. Fusilli stuffed with parsley, soy, ajo blanco sauce
    • Whole-grain = use the whole red mullet, head, bones liver
    • The red mullet was good, though a residual shiny sheen of oil on its skin was a bit thick for my taste. The conceit of using fusilli for the different sauces was creative, though the jelly tasted like tasteless water, and it was hard to get into the sauce.

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  • Carved Beef, Tail Cake, “Potatoes and Peppers” (3.75/5)
    • Tail Cake with Foie
    • Coppered Potato and Piquillo peppers
    • A tiramisu of foie and oxtail, bitter. And some beef with jus, and pepper and potato crisps. Okay. Very classic flavor profile. I guess I can’t say I wasn’t warned. I guess I assumed classics meant signature dishes. Given Akelarre’s reputation for creativity, I was hoping for their signature creative dishes, but what I got was classic dishes with a little twist.

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  • Gin-Tonic on a Plate (3.75/5)
    • Jelly of gin and tonic, juniper sauce (the gin parfum). Mix as desired
    • Bitter jelly, with lemon ice cream. It was okay.

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  • Warm Red Fruit Cake, with Candied Fennel (4/5)
    • A nice fruit/spice cake, flavor profile like British mince pies, except with a bit more raspberry. Good fruit spice.

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Bar Zeruko | San Sebastián | Jun ’14

26 Jul

Fifteen quick minutes
To Spain’s World Cup opener
versus the Oranje

I was in SS
Recuperating after
Lunch at Arzak

I went downstairs and
Googled for “mejor pintxos
I found Zeruko

2014-06-13 20.57.59I had ten minutes
Rushed over and found it packed
Time only for one

2014-06-13 19.59.48 2014-06-13 19.59.56 2014-06-13 20.00.48 2014-06-13 20.02.12 2014-06-13 20.02.27Football fan I am
I choose you, hoguera
Highly rated one

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You smoke bacalao
On a grill, then eat it with
bread and herb puree

Down it with lime juice.
Think of a Patisserie
For modern pintxos

That is Zeruko:
Bewildering assortment
Of colourful things.

2014-06-13 20.07.16Went back to my room
The streets ready to party
One-nil Spain ! Xabi!

Oh dang van Persie
Equalises with header.
One-all. It gets worse.

Daley Blind plays a
“blinder”. One-five. It’s full-time.
I expect sadness.

But Donostia is
Still buzzing after the match
The party goes on.

A loss won’t deter
The determinedly festive
Who’ve made it to Spain

2014-06-13 22.51.57


  • Address: Calle Pescaderia, 10, Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Arzak | San Sebastián | Jun ’14 | “un-Basqued”

26 Jul
  • Rating: 16.5/20
  • Address: Avenida del Alcalde José Elosegi, 273, 20015 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Spain
  • Phone:+34 943 27 84 65
  • Price per pax: €217 ($291 at 1 EUR = 1.35 USD)
  • Value: 1/5
  • Dining time: 130 minutes
  • Chef: Elena Arzak
  • Style: Modernist
  • Michelin Stars: 3

Notable links:


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Arzak has had mixed reviews in the last few years. Michelin continues to rate it highly. But reviews by some food bloggers (Andy Hayler, Elizabeth Auerbach) are less complementary. I was determined to enter Arzak with no expectations, and approach Elena Arzak’s cuisine with an open mind. (and I do not think comparisons to the Arzak of Juan Mari are relevant at all.) Where would this Banco de Sabores take me?

It turns out, I was transported in an Asian direction, unintentionally or intentionally. More specifically, Chinese cooking. A soy-sauce-inflected seabass, nut & seed sauces for pigeon, a scorpionfish dumpling and a sardine sphere that hinted at dim sum, sesame seeds infused with soy and wasabi. Regardless of whether my guess of Chinese experimentation on the part of Chef Elena is correct, I also noticed a lack of an identifiably Basque style to the cooking. And this is perhaps what disappointed me a little about Arzak. The oriental features of the meal were not particularly strong (the nut & seed sauces for the pigeon aside), and I ended the meal thinking that Arzak would have had a stronger meal had they chosen to put their own spin on some dish rooted in Basque country.

2014-06-13 12.40.03Indeed, a 2004 report by the lady “lxt” mentions how Arzak builds on traditional Basque ground:

Under no condition does Arzak fall under the category of those fickle travelers who bounce from corner to corner in their attempt to fit the “current trend.” Perhaps someone dining at Arzak for years may feel nostalgia toward the times when its cuisine was more in accord with the restaurant’s rustic décor, but it hasn’t lost its “personality,” and its development represents nothing but a steady, undeviating, long evolution of contrasted flavors, precisely articulated structures and decisive details, as a result of a highly developed aesthetic intuition while standing sturdily on the raw ground of tradition, letting each dish convey a unique rhythmic movement of a beautifully harmonious ballad. Elena managed to break “the traditional box by sliding out from beneath the roof and extending into the landscape” (Philip Johnson) rather than breaking the foundation of the old “house” completely to rebuild the new cuisine. – lxt

Dining at Arzak 10 years later, it feels as if the pressures to remain innovative has created a restaurant abdicating its Basque roots, experimenting with both oriental gestures and the trappings of modernism. It’s a new ship, this ship of Theseus, and one that’s not recognisably Basque.

*(A special mention for the service, which was excellent)

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  • Scorpionfish mousse with katafi (4.25/5)
    • Scorpionfish in a wispy noodled croquette. Not bad.

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  • Bitter raspberry (3.75/5)
    • Melon-ham cork, raspberry mixed with a bit of apple. Visually interesting, tastewise though ingredients were fairly normal.

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  • “Gilda” of carrots and ssam-jang (3.5/5)
    • Carrot and black olive

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  • Sweet chilli pepper and sardine sphere (4.25/5)

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  • Chorizo with tonic (3.75/5)
    • Ginger ale with ham taste. Ham taste a bit muddled under the ginger ale.

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  • Cromlech, manioc and huitlacoche: Crispy manioc hydrated with huitlacoche stuffed with a preparation of onion, green tea and foie gras (4/5)
    • A bit unwieldly to eat, since the foie gras et al. was underneath a manioc/yuca pastry creation. The fin made a it impossible to flip it over. I settled for flipping it onto its side, and eating it with an undersized spoon.
    • foie’s richness was cut by caramelized onions.

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  • Lobster “Sea and Garden”: Grilled lobster with a crispy star shaped crepe and fresh greens (4.75/5)
    • The best dish of the meal, lobster with tomato water. A star-shaped crepe. A side dish of zucchini (?) roasted with paprika. Spinach leaves with juniper. And various sesame seeds, infused with soy and wasabi, to get a rainbow of different colours.
    • The main axis was the lobster-and sesame seeds combo, enhanced with tomato water. The visual effect was quite stunning.

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  • Ovo-lacto: Egg with semi-crunchy shell and baobab accompanied by “lactic leaves” and curds (3.25/5)
    • A poached egg with crispy milk, and a circular dab of gorgonzola-idiazabal. The idea presumably was to showcase the intersection of milk and egg, two common proteins. But it tasted undistinguished, remaining just a poached egg, a bit of cheese, and milk.
    • The kitchen might also consider not putting so much powder on the crisp itself. While raising it to my mouth, I happened to inhale at the same time, breathing in a lot of powder, and coughing.

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  • Fish steak with potatoes: Fillet of seabass lightly marinated with gin and served with several flavors of potatoes (4/5)
    • Seabass in a light soy sauce. With dehydrated potato films (green potato, blue potato) and candied pistachios.
    • A dish reminiscent in presentation to The Fat Duck’s Sound of the Sea, only this one outdoes it with a visual movie of waves!
    • The seabass was a bit fishy – which I didn’t like, and actually very similar to a Chinese steaming of whole seabass in soy sauce. It was in fact, disregarding the potato films and the candied walnuts, a very Asian-influenced preparation. What did the additional ingredients add? Little – the potato films were mostly tasteless, there for eye-candy and texture, while the candied pistachio bits had crusted sugar on them – good bar snacks, but very little reason to be on the same plate with seabass.
    • I found Fat Duck’s Sound of the Sea to be successful because of the entire marine theme of the plate, but with only one marine item on Arzak’s plate (seabass), the rushing of waves did not enhance the dish. I think these extrasensory items, really only work if all the ingredients transport you to a certain remembered place. Arzak’s avant-garde dishes are at best rooted only in Arzak, and so the visual movie transported me nowhere, and was actually a bit of a distraction.
    • To the extent I was transported, I was transported by the taste of soy, to a crowded outdoor Chinese restaurant, eating a steamed fish in soy. Not really the seaside!

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  • Pigeon and seeds: Pigeon breast over a selection of dried fruits accompanied by an elaboration of seeds like pumpkin, grape or sunflower (4.25/5)
    • Pumpkin seed sauce: delicious. Grapeseed sauce (green dabs): delicious. Sunflower towers: nice. Pigeon leg, with papaya-black-olive-almond, sprinkled with chives: Not bad. Pigeon: with orange sauce. Good.
    • Reminded me of the nut candies I used to gorge on as a kid during Chinese New Year, mixed with pigeon.

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  • The big truffle: Large cocoa and sugar truffle with a creamy chocolate and carob filling (4.5/5)
    • Cotton candy surrounding a creamy filling, with chocolate poured on it. With orange flavor. Comforting.

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  • Black lemon: Crispy black lemon image with a sweet citrus cream interior sprinkled with the same fruit (3.75/5)

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  • Ice-cream assortment (4/5)
    • Carrot ice cream and carob ice cream

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  • Ferreteria
    • A nice selection of visually stunning odds and ends for mignardises. Though the tastes did not wow.
    • Coca-cola gelatin and pop rocks, Bolts, keys, screws. Other stuff.

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Asador Etxebarri | Axpe | Jun ’14 | “Round One”

25 Jul
  • Rating: 19.5/20
  • Address: Calle de San Juán, 1, 24549 Atxondo, Vizcaya, Vizcaya, Spain
  • Phone:+34 946 58 30 42
  • Price per pax: ~€150 ($202 at 1 EUR = 1.35 USD)
  • Value: 5/5
  • Dining time: 190 minutes
  • Chef: Victor Arguinzoniz
  • Style: Barbecue
  • Michelin Stars: 1


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THURSDAYBasque country is a wondrous beast. Driving its windy two-lane* roads, one can quickly move from the seaside scapes of Getaria, with its coastal roads filled with recreational walkers and cyclists taking in the sea breeze, to the one lane dirt roads that feed rural farms, not so much sculpted as gently ribboned onto the mountains of Basque country. On these mountain tracks, one hardly meets other cars, let alone other walkers**. Such was the landscape 30 minutes away from Asador Etxebarri, which meant that I was lost.

* (The main highway between Bilbao and Sebastian is mostly a two-lane affair with a speed limit of 120km. But since it only has two lanes, in practice this means either chugging along at 80-90km behind heavy transportation trucks on the right lane, or being tailgated by racing fantasists at 130-140km on the left “overtaking lane”.)

** (Since it generally takes 10-20 minutes to make a complete circuit on one of these Basque mountain roads, I found it easier to just U-turn when in doubt.)

After some fruitless examination of my Google Maps GPS (I had a internet dongle with me), I realised the voice-instructions were generally misleading. Some roads had shifted direction, and more than once I had been prompted to go down the wrong end of a one-way road. I eventually solved the problem by heading to the bigger town of Durango, before keying in directions to Axpe. The key was an easily-missed exit at one of the 400 roundabouts in the area.

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Stepping out of the car, I smelt pleasant woodsmoke in the breeze, and a quaintly bricked building. The front door opened into an empty bar, and then a staircase brought me up to the second floor, where all the diners were.

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There are at least two areas to dine at Etxebarri: the indoor dining room, which is functionally decorated, with a centerpiece of flowers, or the outdoor verandah. I dined indoors Thursday, and on the verandah Sunday – and my favorite spot was definitely the verandah.

Asador Etxebarri occupies a spot very close to many diners’ hearts. It is proclaimed to be the best barbecue restaurant on the planet, staffed by a skeleton kitchen crew that includes Bittor (Victor) Arguinzoniz and perhaps 3-5 other staff in a very small kitchen. Victor Arguinzoniz is a man who has never seen an ingredient he didn’t want to grill.

Initially, Arguinzoniz served iconic Basque asador (grill-house) dishes: chuletas (bone-in rib eyes), whole sea bream, cogote de merluza (hake neck). The flavors were charred and delicious but one-dimensional, and eventually, inspired by the prime ingredients served at the white-tablecloth restaurants he occasionally visited, he wanted more. “What if delicacies like foie gras or spiny lobster met the grill?” he’d fantasize. And so, in the late ’90s, he did the impossible: He grilled angulas, which are so fragile and miniscule no sane chef would ever toss them onto the grate. Actually, Arguinzoniz didn’t try to toss them onto the grate either. Instead, he invented a meshlike stainless steel saucepan and positioned it high above the hot coals. A few years later, he divined a way of grilling fresh anchovies, sandwiching two tender little butterflied fish together, misting them with Txakoli spray and then cooking them for a nanosecond. They arrived at the table barely heated through and improbably succulent, with a touch of wood smoke. Food critics who tasted them went crazy.

Taking grill cuisine to unexpected places required a whole new set of equipment. Since the necessary tools didn’t exist, Arguinzoniz designed them himself. Lining the entire wall of his kitchen are six custom-made, stainless steel grills. The grates move up and down during cooking through an ingenious system of tracks and pulleys controlled by a wheel. This way, the ingredients’ distance from heat can be regulated with perfect precision. The grills are powered by wood coal that Arguinzoniz prepares himself, twice a day, in two 750-degree ovens. Very few ingredients are grilled directly on grates. (Arguinzoniz scrapes the grills every day anyway, to remove the scent of old carbon char and any accumulated drippings.) Rather, he cooks the food in various sievelike baskets and pans he’s created. Can an egg yolk be grilled? Yes, in a little ringed fine sieve with removable sides, which looks like a miniature cake pan. Caviar? In a double-tiered lidded mesh pan, at 122 degrees and just until it starts sweating oil. Arguinzoniz’s most famous invention is a laser-perforated pan for cooking risotto. So fine are the holes that smoke enters while liquid stays in. “Each ingredient demands its own precise timing and heat intensity,” the chef says. He oversees every order that comes out of his kitchen. – Anya von Bremzen, “Victor Arguinzoniz: The Grilling Genius of Spain”,

And more from Jay Rayner:

“But Bittor is a restless soul, and he started experimenting. He decided charcoal was too harsh and so, around the turn of the millennium, moved backwards to the original wood and took the kitchen inside. He began fashioning metal implements with which to cook using smoke, soldering and welding the pieces together himself. The cooking range is a marvellous self-built Heath Robinson affair: six different grills with different width grids, all of which can be raised and lowered on a pulley system. There are pans with open-mesh bases to allow the smoke to reach the ingredients, and covered pots with big funnel-like holes in the middle for steaming open clams and mussels with smoke. This restaurant, Hastie tells me, is not about dishes and creations. “It’s all about the ingredients. Nothing else.” He shows me filtration tanks full of live lobsters and crabs, and turbot still swimming about. There is a basket of slippery eels and another of oysters the size of side plates. Mushrooms and green herbs are brought in by foragers and in the winter there is game shot by local huntsmen. Most of the vegetables come from Bittor’s own smallholding up the hill, which is overseen by his 86-year-old father.” – Jay Rayner, “The best place to eat barbecue“,

Having tried his dishes, I am convinced that Victor is the greatest chef of the grill. He never uses charcoal, because he believes it too harsh and bitter. The end results are spectacular. In this first meal, I had his famous chuleta (ribeye), mozzarella, some amazing Palamos prawns, baby octopus, peas, anchovies and a smoked milk ice cream that provoked first a chuckle of admiration for his dedication to the art of the grill, and then a more serious appraisal of its merits: one of the best ice creams I have ever eaten in my life.

How long will Victor Arguinzoniz continue at the helm of the kitchen? One hopes, for a long long time to come. The following meal is the first round of dishes I had at Etxebarri. Heeding the dictum to eat there as often as possible, I would have a second round there three days later.

Like Jay Rayner, I cannot say that I am well-versed in the subtleties of the smokiness of different woods. In the world of grilling, I don’t think anyone can adequately judge Victor’s Arguinzoniz’s food, because simply of how innovative he is, and the kinds of techniques he brings to all kinds of rare delicacies. The Michelin system and the fussy modernist aesthetic they currently favour, is irrelevant to such a restaurant. (It has a single star, but on culinary merit alone would easily surpass most three-stars). Hence most food critics or writers, coming to Etxebarri, treat the cooking with a deserved awe. The vocabulary of smoke is limited compared to Victor’s own intuitions and techniques about grilling, and thus ironically, it is Etxebarri and not modernist cuisine which provoked in me feelings of ineffability. Today, one can dive into Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine or watch a conference demonstration video, and find out how 95% of modernist dishes are made. The epicurean experience of a 10 or 20 or 30 course modernist tasting menu can be rationalised into its constituent methods and techniques. But the tastes of the grill at Etxebarri are heady and complex, yet frustratingly elusive in description. The epicurean experience, that feeling of being confronted with something ineffable-new-innovative and consequently just going with the flow, is what some have described as their feelings when they experienced the dishes of el Bulli. For me, the epicurean experience, that feeling of being confronted with the ineffable and innovative, and having without a choice to go with the flow, guided by the genius of the chef (who hits heights one could not even previously perceive), is not today to be found in the modernist restaurants, but in the smoky aromas of Etxebarri.

Notable write-ups:

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  • Butter of goat’s milk with black salt (5/5)
    • A woodsmoked butter. Great. Spread as much on your bread as possible.

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  • Mozzarella of buffalo (5/5)
    • Mostly tasting of buffalo’s milk, there was that vague taste of woodsmoke in the delightfully meaty texture of the mozzarella. A dish to die for. The smoking was so subtle, just tantalisingly out of reach, that a diner wants to fill his/her mouth with its flavor by chewing a bite more, and then a bite more, and then suddenly the mozzarella has disappeared. And with it, the tantalisingly out-of-reach smoky flavors within. A dish that surely fulfilled the stomach via the mozzarella, but the smoking within was transcendental, and trying to taste more than the coquettish hints of it, was a trial of Tantalus. Perfect.

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  • Salted anchovy with toasted bread (5/5)
    • Perfect salting, not too salty, with a richness of taste. The anchovy required no complement (too-salty anchovies sometimes do), but by itself was perfect. It had the completeness of the best jamon.

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  • Chorizo elaborated from acorn-fed pork (4.5/5)
    • mmmmmmm. I could live on this series of snacks.
    • warm, hearty chorizo.

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  • Cracker (3.75/5)
    • With mushrooms from nearby Amboto mountain. (Anboto in Basque). They tasted like light papery slices of mushroom, which was palate-cleansing.

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  • Croquette (4/5)
    • Warm and creamy chicken within, grilled on the pastry.

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  • Prawns from Palamós (5/5)
    • Prawns that made me go weak at the knees. One begins the ritual by biting off the head. Within, a thick green liqueur of prawn head-juices. The correct way to eat it is to get all of it into your mouth, by any means necessary. My method involved raising the prawn heads at 90 degrees to my mouth.
    • Then, one spies bright orange pads at the side of the prawn head. Sweet and marine, like uni.
    • Then, the sweet and tender flesh of the prawn.
    • Now, the prawn has been grilled. It is easy to crunch off its legs, which are crunchy and salty like crisps.
    • And now, to add to all of that, imagine all of this is happening while being confronted with the intoxicating smells of woodsmoke while you are eating it. I could have eaten 20 of these, if they had served me more. A la carte dangles that delightful possibility.
    • These were perfect. Palamós prawns are reputed to be the best prawns in Europe. It is true. Holy moly. If mankind ever invents a method to preserve dishes for posterity, I will nominate this one to represent the “prawn” category.
    • Spain is blessed with the best prawns on the face of this planet. (Maybe besides Japan; and the Obsiblue prawns off Australia).

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  • Sea cucumber and green beans (4/5)
    • Not chewy to the teeth, a slight bitterness in the sea cucumber cut by the taste of beans. A good pairing.

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  • Baby octopus caramelized onions and its ink (5/5)
    • Ooooh. Tender octopus, with mini-bursts of saltiness whenever I popped of its inky-black eyeballs. Really really good.
    • With a compote of caramelized onions. Mmmm, a kiss of smoke, and oh so tender.
    • These are grilled in a strainer bowl (you can see a picture in the Jay Rayner review)

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  • Scrambled eggs of St. George’s mushrooms (3.5/5)
    • Like a soup. I found this hearty, though lacking a bit in taste.
    • St George’s mushrooms are considered a rare delicacy.

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  • Green peas in their juice (5/5)
    • !!!!!!!!
    • peas, in a salty broth of their juices to contrast with the sweetness of the pea. The broth had subtle smoke flavors.
    • Each pea was incredibly juicy and yielding to the teeth, like little pop-grapes, flavored with pea. Incomparably excellent.

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  • Throat of hake with asparagus (4.5/5)
    • Kokotxas pil pil, with white asparagus. The asparagus was falling apart, and asparagus juices mixed with the pil pil sauce. The kokotxas were gelatinous soft.
    • I’m not really a fan of the garlicky pil-pil sauce.
    • The smell of smoke, as intense as any Texas barbecue place.

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  • Beef chop (5/5)
    • The famous Galician ribeye (chuleta) of Victor, cooked over heat intense enough to carbonise bone, within a meaty liqueur of salt, fat, and beef. It is perfect. It is a steak to end all steaks. The redness of the meat, beefy intense, like a piece of heat-crusted meat on the outside revived into beefiness within. The charring from the wood grill and the flakes of salt scattered on its crust, perfect. A marvel.
    • Charred texture, meat liqueur, flakes of salt. What’s there not to <3?
    • Served with lettuce and vinegar, to cut the heaviness of the steak.

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  • and on to desserts…

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  • Reduced milk ice cream with red fruit infusion (5/5)
    • Smoked milk ice cream. How? Buckets of milk in an oven, to absorb the aromas of fire.
    • It was a cognitive double-take, the smoky flavors we usually associate with heat, with the cold temperature of a floral milk ice cream. Perfect. Paired with red fruit infusion, which was a good fruit-ish complement to the ice cream.

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  • Fritters of elderflower (4.75/5)
    • A grilled cheese bun, with a flowery cream filling. Great.

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  • Mignardise (4.75/5)
    • A financier.

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Coffee for the road.

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My trusty Mercedes steed, by my side through all of Pais Vasco.

Elkano | Getaria | Jun ’14 | “turbot”

24 Jul
  • Rating: 16.5/20
  • Address: Herrerieta Kalea, 2, 20808, Getaria, Guipúzcoa, Spain
  • Phone: +34 943 14 00 24
  • Price per person: ~€80 ($108 at 1 EUR = 1.35 USD)
  • Value: 3.5/5
  • Chef: Aitor Arregui (and family)
  • Style: Seafood


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In the course of 6 days in Basque country, I had the good fortune of visiting two ingredient temples. The first, Asador Etxebarri, and the second, Elkano in Getaria. Elkano has the reputation as the best seafood temple in Basque country. It is named after Juan Sebastián Elcano, born in Getaria, the first man to circumnavigate the world (the original expedition commander, Magellan, was killed in the Philippines). The restaurant is located in the centre of the sleepy seaside town, opposite a small square with a statue dedicated to Elcano.

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It was a winding drive from the surf-town of Zarautz, where I was staying, to the town of Getaria. The coast is fairly rocky, the road sometimes passing under drilled out rock. The beach was also nothing much to look at, the sand a dirty brown.

Elkano is famous for its innovative barbecue techniques, specifically, roasting fish whole in its own skin. This was invented by founding patriach Pedro Arregui all the way back in 1964. It is quite a sight to behold, the mighty winged turbot being clamped by a custom-made instrument, and sent onto the grill. Like Etxebarri, the implements seem rudimentary, with different grills, and wheeled systems to move the grills up and down. The results were fantastic: the turbot in particular, oozing with gelatin with every bite. It was oily, gelatinous, a mess, and absolutely delicious.

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I found out later, that Pedro Arregui, the patriach of the restaurant, had passed away in February 2014. (Write-up by Geeta Bansal here: Just a month earlier in January, Elkano celebrated its 50th anniversary. As long as Elkano remains in family hands (the chef is now his son Aitor), I believe Elkano will remain a top class destination for seafood.

Not surprisingly, as Etxebarri and Elkano are only an hour away by car, I found numerous similarities (though it may be the conjoined cause of their location in Basque country) – the wheel-pump implements to raise and lower the grill, the custom barbecue equipment, and the serving of milk-based ice cream with berries.

Other notable write-ups:

  • Geeta Bansal’s recent piece on Elkano:
  • Vedat Milor extols Elkano’s virtues:
  • Obituary for Pedro Arregui:
  • Quique Dacosta memorialises Pedro Arregui:
  • An interview with Aitor Arregui:
    • So the Getaria grill started out here in  Elkano?

      Well, the Getaria grill started out in the boats, as the fishermen already used to grill in the boats, but then red bream and chops were grilled over embers on land. My father began to use other fish and in other ways. They used to take the skin off the flat fish and he decided to grill them whole and in their skin, as he noticed that if you cut up a fish like turbot and grilled it without the skin, the fish tended to dry up. Well, when it is grilled whole, the skin protects it and you keep all the juices, and, you also get a combination of skins and textures with the same turbot. The part that they only used to use to make soup, the nape, well, my father took it and from the hake and put it on the grill, and found out that the nape was better than the tail. That was even an economic change, as the fishermen, who had not been paid anything for the nape, began to be paid as much as for it as for the tail or even more.

      A turning point.

      Yes, in many ways. He began to grill whole shellfish and then he began with the clams. I remember, when I arrived one evening, he said to me: “why don’t we put the kokotxas  (fish cheeks) on the grill?” and we invented a kokotxera (fish cheek grill). We began with a sieve and carried on like that for a year before making the fish cheek grill.  And we then started to try out grilling everything: cuttlefish, vegetables, and many other things… My father was a trail-blazer in the world of grilling, a pioneer and I am only trying to carry on with a team with what he did by himself.


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  • Amuse: Monkfish liver (4/5)
    • Tasted like foie, and the comparison is not superficial. It is amazing that this fish can summon up such a fatty texture
    • Served glazed with sherry, and a cherry

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  • Kokotxas – different textures (fried, grilled, and in green sauce [pil pil]) (4/5)
    • Really top class hake cheeks, though I find the traditional preparation “pil pil” to be a bit too garlicky for my taste.
    • Their gelatin lends them the phrase “melt-in-your-mouth”, though I’ve found with all kokotxas, that it slightly overstates the case – to release the gelatin you still need to chew (very very slightly).

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  • Chopped lobster

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  • Squid (3.5/5)
    • Daily catch of the day

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  • Grilled Turbot (5/5)
    • Hello you beauty. So many textures to speak of. The browned roasted fin is like a well done fried potato crisp; the flesh like bouncy jelly, and the various parts of the head filled with tender oily soft melt-in-your-bits.
    • The existence of this marvellous dish is a testament to the superiority of the Arregui whole-fish-grilling method.
    • The larger the fish, the more plentiful the weird odds-and-ends that make eating turbot a delight

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  • Cheese ice cream with strawberry infusion [helado con queso] (5/5)
    • A really good cheesecake flavored ice cream. This was a simple and perfect way to end a feast.
    • This was a good end to the meal. I would find the gesture of a simple milk-based ice cream with berry sauce, repeated at Etxebarri (with Victor Arguinzoniz’s own twist).

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Notes from Hong Kong (Jul ’14)

24 Jul

Places Covered This Trip (an [X] means they will have their own separate write-up)

  1. Sen-ryo Sushi in Tsim Sha Tsui, HK
  2. Ozone in Tsim Sha Tsui, HK
  3. [X] One Harbour Road (Pearl Chen 25th Anniversary Menu) in Wan Chai, HK
  4. Caffe Habitu in Wan Chai, HK
  5. [X] Bo Innovation in Wan Chai, HK
  6. Cupping Room in Central, HK
  7. Aberdeen Street Social in Central, HK
  8. Angel’s Share in Central, HK
  9. [X] Amber in Central, HK
  10. Full Cup Café in Mong Kok, HK
  11. Islam Food 清真牛肉館 in Kowloon City, HK
  12. Mrs Sweetie 口甜舌滑 in Kowloon City, HK
  13. Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon in Central, HK
  14. The Mandarin Cake Shop in Central, HK
  15. Kau Kee Restaurant 九記牛腩 in Central, HK
  16. Quinary in Central, HK
  17. The Roundhouse in Central, HK

Sen-ryo Sushi in Tsim Sha Tsui, HK

Address: Shop 1086, 1/F, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2196 8209

Rating: 3.25/5

Sen-ryo is a popular sushi chain restaurant in HK. For a two-seater on a Tuesday night, we had to wait around 1.5-2 hours. A substantial number of their patrons are bankers working in the ICC tower above. For non-destination shopping mall sushi, the fish was quite fresh (serving a fairly sophisticated banker clientele might explain this), though the preparation of the sushi leaves something to be desired (I found a bone in my cut of tuna, and my miso soup with clams had gritty clams that hadn’t been purged properly). Rice compression was loose, and held with fingers or chopsticks, the sushi quickly disintegrated. A decent place to eat if near the ICC tower, but really their preparation of sushi should be less amateurish and more careful, given the fairly good ingredients they use. It would be rated higher if the preparation was better.

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Yellowtail (4/5) and Chutoro (4/5)

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Dragon Roll (3.5/5)

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Softshell Crab Roll (3.5/5)

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Uni, Ikura, Roe(?), Tofu (3.75/5)

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Botan Ebi (4.5/5)

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Tuna (2.5/5) and Amaebi (3.75/5)

Found a bone in my tuna, which lowers the score

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Miso Clam Soup (1.75/5)

Gritty clams had not been properly purged, which lowers the score.

Ozone in Tsim Sha Tsui, HK

Address: International Commerce Centre (icc)/the Ritz-carlton Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd W, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2263 2263

Ozone, at the 118th floor of the ICC building, is called the highest bar in the world. The views of HK are breathtaking – and you pay for the view. They have a capable Gin and Tonic menu (that makes 3 specialist G&T bars in a month, Pesca Salada [Barcelona] and La Destileria de Urquijo [Bilbao] the other two). G&T is very hip now.

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“Ginning in the Sky: Tanqueray No. 10, Grapefruit Peel, Basil Q Tonic Water” (4/5)

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[X] One Harbour Road (Pearl Chen 25th Anniversary Menu) in Wan Chai, HK

Address: 7-8/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

Phone: +852 2584 7722

One Harbour Road will have its own write-up.

Caffe Habitu in Wan Chai, HK

Address: 77-79 Gloucester Road, Wan Cha

Phone:+852 2111 2977

In the afternoon, Wan Chai in HK remains full of people. (Where do they all come from? They’re surely not office workers) Traipsing between the Grand Hyatt and Johnston Road for Bo Innovation, I had a free afternoon where I read David Pilling’s (FT’s Asia Editor) very interesting book on Japan, Bending Adversity. I generally find the genre of “books on Country X” to be best written by authors who have been journalists (Elizabeth Pisani’s book on Indonesia is another sparkling example), simply because they both travel widely around the country, and speak with all levels of society, from politicians to businessmen to civil society leaders to artists.

Their espresso is a bit sour from the grounds, but surprisingly for a cafe located on a main road, next to Starbucks and another chain cafe, it was surprisingly peaceful and I spent as idyllic an afternoon as I can imagine in crowded Wan Chai there.

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[X] Bo Innovation in Wan Chai, HK

Address: 60 Johnston Rd, Hong Kong
Phone:+852 2850 8371

Bo Innovation will have its own write-up.

Cupping Room in Central, HK

Address: Shop LG/F, 299 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Phone: +852 2799 3398

Located on the border between Central and Sheung Wan, the Cupping Room features a roomful of awards: Second Place at the World Barista Championships was one of them. Upon inquiry at the counter though, I found the prize winning beverage used special beans that they didn’t have at the moment. This can portend a bait-and-switch, using a generalised aura of magic to sell the entire repertoire of drinks. (This is how Michelin-starred chefs, having made their name, make their fortune – the majority of profits come from their casual brasseries and bistros, rather than their fine-dining establishments). I got a cold brew. It was prettily presented, and was pleasant, if standard for cold brew.

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Not related to the coffee shop, except in spirit.

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The plates I saw at Manresa 3 months ago in April. Strange to see them here in HK.

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A street where they filmed a famous movie.

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1600 pandas… still in the wild.

Aberdeen Street Social in Central, HK

Address: PMQ, G/F, JPC, 35 Aberdeen St, Central

Phone: +852 2866 0300

Rating: 14.5/20

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Aberdeen Street Social, the latest restaurant in the Jason Atherton empire, is located on the ground floor of one of the new arts spaces in Central HK, PMQ (the former Police Married Quarters – for the families of junior officers). It was opened by Mr Atherton in partnership with Yenn Wong. The downstairs bar has a nice retro feel to it, and the upstairs dining area has plusher seats, but pushes a casual tablecloth-less setting. The food was competently prepared, though there were little fireworks to be found. This restaurant struck me as a place where the food lubricates conversations, rather than sparking it, hence the “Social”. I did enjoy hanging out here with my friends.

Timeout HK report:

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Roasted garlic thyme flatbread (3.75/5)

Fried chicken, apricot, chilli, ham (3.5/5)

Good coating, inwardly bland

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Ravioli of Suffolk Pork, Berkswell cheese, peppered heart and kidneys (3.5/5)

Competently done, though the pork was in hard mince lumps.

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Raw Hokkaido scallops, dashi jelly, apple, shiso, avocado and wasabi puree (4.25/5)

It was interesting to have the earthy and peppery contrast between the dashi jelly and the wasabi in the puree.

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Braised ox cheek, roasted bone marrow, sourdough crumb, carrot, horseradish mash

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Roasted bream, Bouillabaisse, saffron aioli, Provencal vegetables (3.5/5)

A bit dry, and a hint of fishiness in the bream. But the bouillabaisse sauce was thick, and of a pleasant one-dimensional savory note, though lacking in the complexity of the best fish stews. A competent rendition.

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Gin and lemon sorbet with cucumber jelly (palate cleanser)

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Grapefruit tonic with juniper syrup (palate cleanser)

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Strawberry, orchids, litchi, yoghurt, white chocolate (3.5/5)

While I appreciate the effort in digging out the individual vesicles of grapefruit, my dessert was undistinguished except for the little hint of the exotic in the lychee (exotic relative to the vaguely-pan-western, tapas-ish positioning of Aberdeen Street Social)

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JAAL 75%, chocolate, banana, calamansi, Madras curry

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Mignardises: Pistachio financier, chocolate, pineapple jelly 2014-07-17 19.41.41 2014-07-17 19.50.30

Angel’s Share in Central, HK

Address: 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

Phone: +852 28058388

Angel’s Share is a serious whisky bar in the centre of HK. With a bar replete with Hibiki bottles infusing myriad whiskies with floral flavors, how could it not be? They have a large selection of whiskies here, including many Japanese whiskies. As a single-malt aficionado, I enjoyed browsing the lists here, and ended up returning a couple of days later.

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Not related, but cool.

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[X] Amber in Central, HK

Address: 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2132 0066

Amber will have its own write-up.

Full Cup Café in Mong Kok, HK

Address: 36 Dundas St, Mong Kok, Hong Kong
Phone:+852 2771 7775

Located in a back alley in Mong Kok, and occupying the 4th-6th floors of Hanway Commercial Centre, Full Cup Cafe is an indie cafe, which makes a virtue of HK’s large amo

Rents in HK are high for ground floor, street facing storefronts. The Fullcupcafé, which may be called indie and sketchy in equal measure, is located on the 4th-6th floors of Hanway Commercial Centre, in a back alley of the uber-crowded Mong Kok district. This cuts down on the rents. It is a nice place to hang out, and they sometimes have indie performances there.

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And while we’re on the subject of Mong Kok, the Goldfish Market (Tung Choi Street North) has some very pretty aquatic and pet life.

Islam Food 清真牛肉館 in Kowloon City, HK

Address: 1 Lung Kong Rd, Kowloon City, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2382 2822

Rating: 4.5/5

Islamic Chinese food is something I had no experience of before stepping into Islam Food. Festooned with Openrice plaque awards for best food in Kowloon City, this main shop (another branch exists on 33-35 Tak Ku Ling Road a couple of streets away) serves a bevy of interesting dishes. A definite place to return to.

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Veal Goulash (Biscuits) (4.75/5)

The inner part comprised of a meaty liquid surrounding a mince patty of veal, like a xiaolongbao. First time I’ve seen it on a buscuit.

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Sesame Oil Chicken (4.5/5)

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Lamb Curry (4/5)

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Chicken, Noodles, Peanut Sauce (4/5)

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Mrs Sweetie 口甜舌滑 in Kowloon City, HK

Address: 7A Nga Tsin Wai Rd,, Kowloon City, Hong Kong

Phone: +852 2718 2328

A traditional dessert store in Kowloon City. Many of these, I had not seen in Singapore.

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Durian Paste with Sago

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公司涼粉 (3.75/5)

Distinguished mainly for the taste and texture of nata-de-coco-strips, and the various textures of bean (mung beans and red beans) within.

Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon in Central, HK

Address: Shop 315, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong

Phone: (852) 2166 9000.

To my knowledge, this is the one Joel Robuchon outlet in the world serving afternoon tea. This Salon outlet was located within spitting distance from the McDonald’s of haute-cuisine, L’Atelier Robuchon. (Even Robuchon confesses himself perplexed as to why his HK outlet is rated a 3-Michelin-starred restaurant:

Before going to HK, I did not know that afternoon tea was a big tradition there. Having the afternoon tea set, I liked the prawn sandwich best. (Afternoon tea sometimes strikes me more as class signifier than aesthetic experience)

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The Mandarin Cake Shop in Central, HK

Address: 2nd floor of the Mandarin Oriental HK

While walking through the Landmark complex of 4 shopping centres, I was struck by the pretty cakes on display at the Mandarin Cake Shop. So we had a second round of afternoon tea at the patisserie section of the Mandarin.

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Mille-feuille (3.5/5)

A bit soggy. And basically impossible to cut without squishing the cream all out, if you didn’t have a knife.

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Chocolate Caramel (4/5)

Salty and sticky, under the chocolate overtones

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Green Tea Cake (3.75/5)

Kau Kee Restaurant 九記牛腩 in Central, HK

Address: 21 Gough St, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2850 5967

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On our way from the Mandarin Oriental we walked by these two interesting characters. One was mimicking the picture of “His Master’s Voice” outside the HMV store, and the other was simply resting in the middle of a busy luxury shopping-street.

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Impressive enough to warrant its own Wikipedia page (, the hideously inexpensive Kau Kee features a queue of 20-30 minutes to get your beef brisket noodle fix. Tables of 2 are waved in faster than tables of 3 or 4. The gelatinous cuts of brisket go well with the QQ/al dente noodles, which have a springiness that brings to mind instant ramen. The noodle dough is clean-tasting with clear egg tastes.

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Beef brisket noodles (3.75/5)

Curry beef brisket noodles (4.25/5)

Quinary in Central, HK

Address: Ground Floor 56-58 Hollywood Road Central, Hong Kong.

An ambitious cocktail bar, considered one of the best in HK. Also, they serve the sour-cream tasting tapioca chips, which are combustible. Angel’s Share also serves it.

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Barbados Heritage: “Extra Old” Mount Gay Rum, Grand Marnier, Drambuie, Pernod Absinthe mist, chocolate bitters

The burnt cinnamon stick – aromatic. Strong tangerine flavors.

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Mugunghwa Fizz: homemade yuzu-gin syrup, gin, cream, lemon juice, lime juice, shaken. Topped with Korean rice wine with dashes of orange blossom water and grapefruit peel. (4.5/5)

Interesting, texture like an egg-cream without custard taste-notes, and instead tasting like sake.

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The Roundhouse in Central, HK

Address: 62 Peel St, Hong Kong

Phone:+852 2366 4880

And finally to round off, a new Texas-style BBQ joint cum pub in Central. The brisket is good, though the pulled pork in keeping with Texan stereotype, is a step behind.

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Azurmendi | Larrabetzu | Jun ’14 | “liquefaction”

15 Jul
  • Rating: 19.5/20
  • Address: Legina Auzoa, s/n, 48195 Larrabetzu, Vizcaya, Spain (exit 25, N637)
  • Phone: +34 944 55 88 66
  • Price (after tax + tip, coffee): ~€150 ($204 at 1 EUR = 1.36 USD)
  • Value: 5/5
  • Dining Time: 165 minutes
  • Chef: Eneko Atxa
  • Style: Modernist
  • Michelin Stars: 3

Notable reviews:

  1. (2014) Elizabeth Auerbach review
  2. (2013) Vedat Milor review
  3. (2012) Bruce Palling review


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Azurmendi has had one of the fastest three-star rises anywhere in the world. Eneko Atxa’s greenhouse of sustainability, a short 15 minute drive from Bilbao, was awarded 1* in 2006, 2* in 2010, and finally 3* in 2012. In fact, leaving aside the expansion restaurants of celebrity chefs like Robuchon, Ducasse, and Keller – Azurmendi may in fact have the fastest three-star rise for an original chef proprietor anywhere.

Azurmendi is named for both the mothers of Eneko Atxa and Jon Eguskiza, the chef and maitre d’ of the restaurant respectively. They were brought up in the Basque village of Amorebieta-Etxano. Eneko Atxa’s uncle, Gorka Izagirre, is “the largest proprietor of Txakolin in the Basque region.” [1] . Atxa has trained at Martin Berasategui, Asador Etxebarri, and Mugaritz. He also considers Yoshihiro Murata of 3* Kikunoi Honten in Kyoto a major influence:

“There was another Three Star Michelin chef that had a big impact on me in 2005. I learned a lot from Yoshihiro Murata the famed kaiseki chef at Kikunoi Honten, Kyoto) as I worked with him in Japan. I had been talking with him for a few days and asked him if I could witness his creative process in the kitchen. In response, Muratasan told me to meet him at five in the morning so I imagined he would take me to his kitchen and we could cook together. We got into his car and surprisingly, we didn’t go to his kitchen but instead to one of his producers. We had some tea and then spoke for two hours about which produce he should use because of the seasonality. It made me realize that factors like seasons and availability of various products was so important. We visited one who provided vegetables, another who dealt with general produce, who also knew things such as when the best fish are available and why. This was a very valuable lesson to me as I opened my first restaurant at the end of 2005. I was always very clear about what I wanted to do in my own kitchen – to make something from the local produce that had a universal message.” – Bruce Palling


Right when I stepped into Azurmendi, I was given a tour of three spaces (along with snacks) before settling into my table for the afternoon. The first was the environmentally sustainable greenhouse, growing an admirable variety of herbs. I was served six snacks there, some with a “found” quality, akin to a fairytale. The second was a picnic basket of three little bites in the main foyer. The third was the kitchen tour, with two further snacks. And finally I was ushered into the dining room to begin the meal proper. Elizabeth Auerbach mentions that the kitchen considers this the “four acts” of Azurmendi. It is unique among the restaurants I have visited – not least because it requires an integrated compound to have all these spaces to walk around in.

The end effect is that the diner ends at the table well-disposed to the kitchen, for adding a new experience to his memories. I had, for instance, a mix-up with the rental car company that caused me to be an hour late, but I had forgotten all my worries by the end of the tour around the greenhouse, garden, and kitchen.


I wish to draw attention mostly to Azurmendi’s liquefaction effects, which have not been remarked upon sufficiently. I consider this a signature effect of Atxa’s cuisine. I was served a “bonbon” (for definitional purposes: liquid held in a thin solid receptacle), at least eight times over the course of my meal at Azurmendi. Normally, this would be nothing more than a pleasant effect. This is what the modernist spherified amuses-bouche and mignardises at Le Squer’s Ledoyen achieve – an amusing diversion, they bookend Le Squer’s more substantial and celebrated classically-based cuisine.

But Atxa seems a veritable master of liquefaction. There are two major differences I have noticed between his approach to liquefaction and those of other chefs. The first is the variety of textures, and receptacles he uses for his liquids. His signature truffled-egg uses the natural yolk-membrane to hold both hot-truffle jus and gently poached yolk. In the greenhouse, I was served a guacamole cream bonbon with a thicker shell. He uses souffle pillows to hold ham-liquid (in the picnic basket, in the garden) and garlic cream (in the kokotxas). Somehow, he spherifies idiazabal cheese (with alginate? but the spheres are huge…). For his milk dessert, he crafts eggs with creme-caramel filling. Clearly, he has mastered a whole range of techniques for liquefaction and containment of such liquids. He has at least five good ones.

The second major difference is flavor. I do not know his techniques, but the liquids in his spheres are somehow more intense than those of other chefs. (Does it have to do with centrifuging?). In fact, this is a strength not just in the liquids, but in all of the dishes, the flavors tend to belie their minimalist and sleek geometric presentations, with flavors that dance on the tongue.


If Atxa’s cooking seems minimalist, it is – in terms of flavor profile of some of the dishes. Many of the snacks in the greenhouse were two-note bites (e.g. carrot in balsamic, tomato in vinegar, sunchoke skin with lime). While this is to be expected for the simpler greenhouse snacks, it (sometimes) makes a reappearance in his cooking at large. And so we enjoy dishes such as the lobster-chive, where a cornet of lobster tartare sits upon a roasted out-of-shell lobster, in chive oil and chive puree. Or his signature truffled-egg, which is precisely its stated two ingredients. Duck a l’Orange – is duck and orange. His successful dessert of strawberries and roses, is precisely strawberries and roses. This is ingredient-minimalism even beyond that of L’Ambroisie, typically 3-5 apparent principal ingredients; Atxa apparently can sometimes make do with just 2.

Minimalism of flavor profile, requires a great deal of conception and execution to pull off successfully. Atxa is not always successful in this. He hits extremely high heights (the perfectly roasted out-of-shell lobster; strawberries and roses) but can also overplay the unctuous nature of his creations (duck a l’orange, kokotxas). But it is exciting to witness his creations, in the dishes where he sets himself these two-flavor constraints.

Minimalism also expresses itself in radial symmetry in his dishes (nearly all of them). And since minimalism is a perfectionist’s errand, the spirit of a meal at Azurmendi is the opposite of the jazz restaurants (e.g. L’Arpège or André).


The general philosophy of Azurmendi is sustainability. Azurmendi was sustainably constructed (see this video on Azurmendi’s construction), and Eneko has mentioned his desire to be the most ecological restaurant in the world:

“The one thing that was always very clear to me was although I conceived of Azurmendi as a restaurant, I also wanted to be my home, so everyone involved has to think of themselves not as a cook or a waiter but everyone who formed part of the project had to behave like a host. And that is all of the members and staff. There will always be a host to greet our guests and then we start with a small walk. We are happy for people to arrive in electric cars because we have a free service for them to recharge.

We try and encourage this whole attitude within this complex. We have been in touch with the American authorities to see if we qualify as the most ecological restaurant in the world as we are definitely the most advanced one in Europe but we don’t know yet if we quality on the world level too. We are not completely sustainable at the moment but that is definitely the path we are striving to achieve.” – Bruce Palling

But a puzzle about Azurmendi and Chef Eneko’s philosophies remain – one specifically about his culinary philosophy – for someone who worked at Etxebarri, why does he not have a wood-fired grill in his kitchen?

“After further conversing with him I understood that he considers the a la brasa method, however subtle and nuanced it is, as is the case at Etxebarri, not suitable for a top end destination.  He thinks that dishes cooked a la brasa lack refinement. This is strange because I think the very opposite. For example, Etxebarri’s cooking brings out the taste of the great ingredients, whereas sous vide eliminates textural differences between and within categories ( I am talking about meat) in favor of a cloth-like soft and UNIFORM texture.” – Vedat Milor

The flavor of smoke appeared in the fisherman’s rice, but only as if by some sort of flavor sorcery, for there was no smoke to the eye. From my meals at Etxebarri, grilling can elevate a solitary ingredient, and can be seen (with a lot of aesthetic distance) as the culmination of culinary minimalism. Perhaps the final judgement is a visual-aesthetic rather than a culinary one, for the beautiful sculpted dishes of Chef Eneko’s art seem to inhabit a different aesthetic plane from the robust ingredient-dishes at the temple of Etxebarri. Both types of cooking yield great tastes (and Chef Eneko is a master of intensifying tastes), but the sculpted cuisine offers him a greater leeway to create a visual art. Thus the centrifuge over the wood grill.

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  • Appetizers in the greenhouse:
    • Tomato poached with vinegar (3.25/5)

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  • An elixir of (orange, pomelo, hibiscus) (3.5/5)

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  • Pumpkin-parmesan butter biscuit. (3.5/5)

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  • Avocado bonbon – coloured to mimic the seed of the avocado – in a dried avocado shell. (3.5/5)

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  • Roasted sunchoke skin, stuck on the stem with lime gel (3.25/5)

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  • Carrot, marinated in balsamic vinegar (3.25/5)
  • A bunch of herbaceous snacks, which were more interesting rather than delicious, reminding me of Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills, New York) with their amuse of vegetable crudites. But these one-note snacks were peripheral players, prefiguring the playfulness of Atxa’s vision. These were not chords (hinting at a future dish), let alone fugues (completed dishes), but rather minimalist note tinkering.
  • The fun was to stumble across these dishes, as if these wonders had been placed by Providence along our path through the greenhouse. It was a novel concept (and also one that requires a surrounding bit of nature). Of those I would class the avocado bonbon as the cleverest, relying on a visual similarity between the bonbon and an avocado seed – and the ensuing texture of guacamole on the tongue enjoyable. The sunchoke skin, with its visual similarity to bark, was also very interesting.
  • It was in a way, a logical extension of New Nordic cuisine, which seeks to bring the forest floor to your table. Azurmendi brought us to “nature” (a greenhouse), and served us dishes. In the future, some enterprising chef might even plate full dishes in nature. Alinea (see Ruth Reichl’s 2014 report) and Atelier Crenn in the US have experimented with “found” dishes, using carrots.

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  • Appetizers in the garden:
    • Bread and ham (5/5)
      • This really kicked off the meal. An intense hit of umami, liquid ham, hit the palate as soon as the bread pillow cracked. The senses were jolted with the first protein of the day. The meal had started.

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    • Homemade Seasoned Anchovy (4/5)
      • This was fairly good, but our perceptions of saltiness being what it is (very personal), I felt it was oversalted for my taste. I preferred the salting of Asador Etxebarri version.

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    • CaipiriTxa (4/5)
      • A liquid Caipirinha cocktail bonbon, only with Txakoli instead of rum. Good. You will note that at this point, Azurmendi has already served three bonbons. (avocado, ham, caipirinha)

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  • Appetizers in the kitchen:
    • Red bean soup (4/5)
    • Blood sausage croquette (4/5)

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  • Hazelnut, peanut, almond and mushroom leaf (5/5)
    • Atop a mushroom leaf covering three nuts.  Clockwise from 10 o’clock: hazelnut, peanut, almond
    • Hazelnut turned out to be a pigeon foie gras (5/5)
    • Almond was amaretto liqueur (4.5/5)
    • Peanut was peanut butter [possibly with addition of foie?] (5/5)
    • A big part of Atxa’s aesthetic seems to be stylised set pieces. Here, a tree leaf covers three nuts. Before, a picnic in the garden. Before that, found plantstuffs in the greenhouse. All of the nuts had great mixtures of sweet and unctuousness, from the butters and foie.

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  • House steamed bread with olive oil (5/5)
    • One of the simplest bites, but among my top memories of the place. A simple steamed bread with Andalucian olive oil, but the bread had a milky sweetness and a pillowy texture, similar to a Chinese mantou (steamed bun). It was unexpected that I would find a similar steamed bun tradition in Basque country.

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  • Egg from our hens, cooked inside out and truffled (5/5)
    • A video of Eneko Atxa preparing the dish:
    • Hot truffle jus is syringed into an egg yolk. The temperature cooks it through, poaching the egg.
    • This is essentially a two-note dish, a modern interpretation of the scrambled eggs and black truffle combination. I thought this very clever. The bonbon effect was at play for the Fourth time again, as truffle and egg exploded in the mouth upon contact. A conceptual masterpiece.
    • One wonders if it can be replicated with white truffle. Would it be desirable to replicate it with white truffle?

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  • Bloody “Mar” (4.5/5)
    • A video of Atxa preparing the dish:
    • Vodka, black pepper, tomato, with sea urchin and celery.
    • Really strong sea urchin flavor, which was complementary to the cocktail. A bit difficult to figure out how to eat this dish, I settled for taking a bite of the wafer (halving it), then sipping the cocktail, then finishing the other half with the remaining cocktail. I found the concept and flavor pairing compelling, but the presentation unwieldly.

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  • Tomato, cheese and basil tartlet (4.25/5)
    • Vegetable tartlets, with skinless tomatoes, tomato emulsion, and the roasted skinlets of tomato. Finished with idiazabal (sheep’s cheese) bonbon. By the side, a idiazabal cheese sorbet.
    • Good. Sweetness of tomato cut the richness of idiazabal. Strangely, for a strongly flavored cheese, I remembered the idiazabal bonbons as having a bland milkiness. Profound tomato flavor.
    • I was advised to eat one tartlet first without the idiazabal sorbet, and the second one with.

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  • Roasted lobster out of the shell on oil herbs and sweet chives (5/5)
    • A great lobster dish. A lobster tail taken out of its shell, perfectly roasted to give it a crunchy browning outside, with a cornetto of stuffed lobster tartare on top. Chive oil and chive emulsion. The out-of-shell lobster was perfectly roasted to give it the crunch, while retaining softness within. The cornetto was delicious.
    • I remember most the impeccable technique, to impart that crunchy browning to the lobster, while maintaining a good inner texture.

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  • Traditional Fisherman style charcoal-grilled rice (5/5)
    • A strong smoky flavor, a hearty dish of the juices of little clam, with cream of sea urchin, and oysters smoked in charcoal. Eating this, I was transported somewhere near a burning wood campfire, eating with fishermen at the end of a fishing trip.
    • This presented a different side of Atxa’s cooking. Whereas I admired some of his other dishes (like the Bloody Mar) more with the head, this grabbed me by the gut. I craved this dish.

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  • Duck Royal “a l’orange” and orange blossom aroma (4.25/5)
    • The scent of orange zest was sprayed when the dish was served. The “orange segment” was sculpted of foie, covered in orange jelly. In the centre, a terrine of meat (and foie?).
    • While I enjoyed and appreciated the technique involved in reimagining and executing the dish (orange segment especially), the tastes were dominated by the savory parts of foie and meat terrine. I rationed my little real orange bits, and the orange jelly on the foie “faux” orange segment, to provide a fruity respite from the onslaught of unctuousness. This dish felt unbalanced, as if the kitchen had cranked up the dial on fattiness to 11/10.
    • Perhaps as an improvement, a lighter intermezzo course would have worked well between the Fisherman’s Rice and Duck a l’orange.

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  • “Kokotxas” with potatoes (4/5)
    • Kokotxas – an ingredient I would become very familiar with over the next few days – was first introduced to me here. It is the cheek of hake, the most gelatinous part of the fish, and sought by gourmands for its melt-in-the-mouth texture.
    • It was here confit with olive oil, and the gelatin was used for an emulsion with chilli pepper and chipotle garlic. On it, the bonbon-liquidising element made a sixth appearance, with the potato souffle pillows containing a burst of garlic cream.
    • Heavy. The 4th of 5 heavy courses, the gelatinous kokotxas were indeed enjoyable, but the dial on heaviness remained at 11/10 thanks to the garlic and cream.

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  • Confit and roasted baby pig, crunchy pork ear and pumpkin in different textures (4/5)
    • Suckling pig, a croquette of pig’s ear, with slivers of raw pumpkin wrapped around pumpkin cream
    • The suckling pig was drier than I would have liked. Here we can make another observation: in an echo of the earlier snacks at the greenhouse, Atxa can minimise the basis ingredients of his “signature dishes” down to 2. I think of the egg (truffle + egg), lobster (lobster + chive), and now the pork (pork + pumpkin). I do not think it is a coincidence. Atxa’s minimalist tendency expresses itself presentation-wise in sleek geometric lines (think the cornetto) and radial symmetry (this dish); taste-wise in paring down ingredients to two principal actors, with maybe a minor third ingredient for certain accents.

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  • Dry Croissant of Fruits and Creamy Cheese Ice Cream (5/5)
    • Fruit meringue and thyme-cheese ice cream. Tremendous and inventive flavor.
    • The bare bones of a larger idea about thyme and cheese?
    • The sensuous curves evoking the nearby Bilbao Guggenheim.

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  • Strawberries and roses (5/5)
    • With violence, and dry ice, the vase containing a solitary rose exploded into wafts of “smoke”, carrying rose perfume.
    • The delicate crunch of rose petals (shredded and whole), with marshmallow of rosewater, strawberry sorbet and wild strawberries. For me it was indescribable, the delicate vegetal crunch of the shredded rose, along with the light rosewater marshmallow, which captured for me the lightness of the flower. It was given body by the strawberries. Independent of the theatrical presentation (which was much appreciated), this dish had the highest gastronomic merit: the metaphorical lightness of roses was made literal with textures of marshmallow and shredded rose.

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  • Egg and dairy products, Farmhouse Milk Ice Cream, Butter Toffee, “homemade eggs” milk skin and gelée of yogurt (5/5)
    • “It has made me fall in love with vanilla” – that was what I wrote. Bed of toffee butter, cubes of yoghurt gelatin, dehydrated spiced milk. Dehydrated milk bits, milk ice cream, along with for a seventh time, eggs with liquid creme caramel filling.
    • The vanilla in the ice cream was accentuated by its supporting cast. It was the star. The taste of spiced milk; the sour of yoghurt; the richness of toffee butter. A homage to milk.

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  • Petit fours
    • Hazelnut
    • Golden – buddha hand, flan
    • Chocolate jelly
    • Marshmallow, chocolate dip
    • Hazelnut bonbon
    • White chocolate
    • Passionfruit

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Tapas 24 | Barcelona | Jun ’14

11 Jul
  • Overall Rating: 4/5
  • Address: Carrer de la Diputació, 269, 08007 Barcelona, Spain
  • Phone: +34 934 88 09 77
  • Price: €90 (all-in) for 3 pax


*After a lot of thought, it seems to me that casual restaurants tend to be shortchanged by being ranked on the same scale as fine-dining restaurants. It would be unfair to them, to compare them against a brigade of chefs and staff, dedicated to crafting the edible works of art.

Therefore I have decided to rank casual restaurants on a different scale from formal restaurants. They will be ranked out of 5, and the details can be found here: ( This will be my first casual place review, using the new ranking system.

TAPAS 24 in Barcelona is often crowded with tourists, especially after the hours of 7.30pm (it features in Japanese guidebooks), and is considered one of the city’s better tapas restaurants (along with El Quim de Boqueria, and Cal Pep). I was recommended this place by at least two people who’ve lived in Barcelona, independently of each other. It is conveniently located on the Passeig de Gracia, near the two Gaudi attractions in the center of town. We ordered the following:

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1. Tapa d’Or (Fresh crushed tomato with pepper, Jerez vinegar, salt maldon, and EVOO) (3.5/5)

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2. Croqueta de Pollastres Rostit (Roasted Chicken Croquette) (4.5/5)

Moist strips of chicken within, well marinated and very tasty.

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3. “Boquerones al Limón” (Fried anchovies marinated with lemon) (4.25/5)

Fresh, and a wonderful beer snack. Subtle zesting with lemon.

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4. Patatas Bravas (3.75/5)

Nice crisp initially, but quickly got soggy from the heavy sauce. Sauce wasn’t particularly inspired, have tried better bravas (at Flan y Ajo in Providence (!))

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5. Tacos de Cochinita Pibil (4/5)

A slow roasted pork dish. This had good warm tacos – rough in texture, and at least with some semblance of corn flavor. Wikipedia:

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6. Gambas a la Planxa (4.75/5)

The best dish we tried here. Crisp, the legs were easily edible and crunched off like so many salty crisps. The heads were delectable. I would go on to have great prawns at Etxebarri, 41 Degrees, and ABaC, but these were fantastic, no frills.

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7. Sonsos (4/5)

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8. A rice stew with artichokes, sea-bass and rice. (3.25/5)

This had alright flavor, if a bit salty. But the serving was meagre, and the seabass texture could barely be  discerned.

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Auberge du Vieux Puits | Fontjoncouse | Jun ’14 | “perfect masterpieces”

10 Jul
  • Rating: 20/20
  • Address: 5 Avenue Saint-Victor, 11360 Fontjoncouse, France
  • Phone: +33 4 68 44 07 37
  • Price (after tax + tip, wine and champange): €190 ($258 at 1 EUR = 1.36 USD)
  • Course Progression: 4 amuse – 5 main – 1 cheese – 1 dessert – 3 mignardises
  • Value: 5/5
  • Dining Time: 180 minutes
  • Chef: Gilles Goujon
  • Style: Creative
  • Michelin Stars: 3

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The hour-long drive from Carcassonne to Fontjoncouse passed through a number of rural villages, many the colour of light sand. Dwindling in population as we got further and further from the highway, and each successive village seemed increasingly unlikely to contain gastronomic temples. Finally we were confronted with a short 15 minute segment up a windy and secluded mountain path, and arrived in the smallest town of them all – Fontjoncouse (population: 131 [2008]). But as we approached the scenery changed. A multinational crew, hallmark of a Michelin starred restaurant, was preparing for lunch service.

And in this remote corner of France, I had a fine-dining meal, where for the first time, I thought every course was perfect (i.e. 5/5). In fact, in a trip that featured so many memorable meals, L’Auberge du Vieux Puits (Inn of Old Wells) stuck out as one of the most memorable. I would rate it as my favorite meal this France trip, out of a galaxy of multiple-Michelin-starred restaurants we tried (L’Arpege, L’Ambroisie, Ledoyen, Le Parc Franc Putelat).

A comment on Gilles Goujon’s working method: Chef Gilles Goujon chooses to focus on a few dishes at a time, and each of dishes represent a single idea developed to a very high level. And the fruits of his labour are his perfect masterpieces.

Gastronomically, the sauces here are some of the most intense sauces I’ve ever tried – there is no concession to modernity or corner-cutting in the preparation of these fantastic sauces. Many of the dishes evoke rustic French and Catalan cooking, and the flavors are clear and shine through with intensity. Most chefs would be happy with creating some of the most delicious dishes known to the diner. But Gilles Goujon has presentation strategies that elevate these dishes to an even higher level. His tools are elaborate sugarwork (a pearl containing smoke, polished to lustre; fake-cherries and fake-lemons for dessert; a crystallised courgette flower to evoke a Mediterranean salad), and interactivity: few dishes are served “complete” straight from the kitchen to the diner’s table – instead, the diner has to either take part in serving the meal, or witness the finishing of the dish before his/her eyes. I smashed a pearl with a hammer to release its smoke, and cut open an egg to reveal its “rotten” truffle puree core. I watched as a spoon of saffron cream was dissolved by the pouring of a bullinada fish stew, and witnessed cream being poured into a vol-au-vent. The diner does not just tuck into the dish with forks and spoons, we are active witnesses to the dish being finished, participants to a theatrical show. One feels here a playfulness and sense of mischief.

The Auberge du Vieux Puits is a rare place: most restaurants are skilled at extracting flavors, but presentation is secondary. What I mean by secondary is not that the presentation is not wonderful, but that the presentation technique in non-essential. For example, in my post on Ledoyen, I posted a video of Le Squer making his turbot dish for home-viewers. At the end, his “zebra” truffle stripes are dispensed with, since they are just ostentatious ornamentations; Le Squer merely spoons some mashed truffle over the finished turbot. At Auberge du Vieux Puits, in the best dishes like the “rotten egg” dish, the temporal element of presentation is all-important. We are meant to feel the surprise of seeing rotten egg come out the egg. In the oyster dish, we are meant to see the pearl in all its glory, but the “finished” presentation is a cracked pearl. The “bullinada” being poured into the spoon; yields a “finished” presentation that will look messy, but half the fun and excitement is seeing it being poured.

(Another type of restaurant has dishes with good presentation, but poor flavor. Pete Wells, the NYTimes critic, recently wrote a good critical piece on this phenomenon)

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As a last comment, I think that the chef is one of the bravest in France. It takes a certain kind of bravery, perhaps even foolhardiness, to open a restaurant in the middle of mountainous nowhere. For 5 years from 1992-97, the Auberge saw little business, and was forced to throw out almost all of its purchased produce, since Chef Goujon did not believe in serving frozen food.

There seem to be four sources of information for Gilles Goujon’s career, two Slate articles written by Nicolas de Rabaudy on chef Goujon’s backstory ( [2013]) and ( [2009]), a Quora post by Julien Vache on the promotion of Chef Goujon to three Michelin stars, and finally a French Wikipedia article also fills in on some other details (without attribution though) such as his motivation for becoming an MOF (to bring more publicity to this remote restaurant).

I won’t belabor the biography, but in short order: Gilles Goujon trained as a chef under Roger Verge at the Moulin de Mougins, and then Gerald Passedat at Le Petit Nice. At 30, he decided to take on a failed village hostel called Auberge du Vieux Puits for the equivalent of 34,000 Euros. The mayor of Fontjoncouse had believed that the only way to attract visitors to his sleepy village was to create a destination restaurant. For 5 years, Goujon and his wife Marie-Christine had almost no customers, since the Auberge was situated in a remote corner of France. Since he did not believe in serving frozen food, he would throw out a lot of fresh produce, and by his own admission, was despairing of the situation. To create a higher profile for the restaurant, he trained and won MOF honours for himself in 1996. The restaurant began to attract a local clientele from Narbonne, Carcassonne and Montpelier, drawn by both Goujon’s growing reputation and his very reasonable prices (15-25 Euro set menus). In 1997, he was awarded a first Michelin star,  increasing customers by 35%. In 2001, he was awarded a second star, increasing customers by another 53%. A misstep in 2008, chronicled by Julien Vache, temporarily delayed his ascension to three-star ranks. But in 2009 (for the 2010 guide), he was notified that he would be awarded three Michelin stars.

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  • Amuse bouche (5/5)
    • White shell, liquid truffle ball. (5/5) An intense burst of truffle flavor. Liquid truffle is one of the great truffle preparations of the world, especially when bitten into, a la bonbon.
    • Snail and garlic in choux-pastry (4.75/5)
    • Goat cheese millefeuille (4.5/5)
    • Tartlet of carrot and cumin (5/5)
    • All of them had well-developed, well thought-out flavors.

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butters: beetroot + pink pepper, seaweed + oyster jus, Espelette pepper

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  • Gillardeau Oyster, Seawater Jelly, Sugar Pearl Containing Smoke, and Cream of Chives (5/5)
    • “With a hammer, please smash the pearl”. A waft of intense wood-smoke arose.
    • First class sugar work, a pearl which was very lifelike.
    • A piece of art, evoking joy of discovery of the unexpected. The pearl was the first surprise, the interactive smashing and presentation of the smoke the second second surprise. By subverting expectations twice, once on serving the dish to the table (with sugar pearl), and once on interacting with the dish (by smashing said pearl), Chef Goujon created a masterpiece.
    • Texturally, the uniform texture of jelly and the diverse textures of meaty Gillardeau oyster, gave it a great contrast of textures. Superb in presentation and conception

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  • En hommage à Roger Vergé. <<Le Poupeton>> fleur de courgette chrystal farcie d’un sorbet tomate basilic, marinade catalane aux anchois de l’Escala et huile d’olive maturées (5/5)
    • A crystallised courgette flower, with tomato basil sorbet in the center atop a Catalan marinade with anchovies and mature olive oil.
    • The first thing about the dish, is that it feels conceived first with the Catalan marinade of Mediterranean ingredients – chopped tomatoes, courgettes, red pepper, and black olive – in a “tartare”.
    • But that is not the first sensation to hit the mouth. It is the cold of the tomato-basil sorbet, which shone with tomato flavor. The sweetness and the cold, mixed with the “tartare” of various ingredients, became a delightful taste of a cold Mediterranean salad, with the coldness taken literally.
    • Aesthetically, this was crowned with a crystallised courgette flower (which was amazing to behold), and overlapping slices of courgette. This symbolised the delight I feel when seeing great flowers, each flower telling of the beautiful qualities of the land. The terroir here was the Mediterranean. In presentation and taste, this dish was inspired in conception and perfect in execution.

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  • L’oeuf poule Carrus <<pourri>> de truffe mélanosporum sur une purée de champignons, briochine tiède et cappuccino à boire, une râpée de truffe tuber aestivum (5/5)
    • The signature “rotten egg” dish of the restaurant. A complicated dance of steps. First an egg is presented on top of mashed mushrooms.
    • Then to the side, a dish of truffle milkshake and truffle brioche is served. It will remain there.
    • Back to the main dish, with the fork, one splits the egg open, to reveal a filling of a thick, opaque, black truffle sauce. The egg has gone bad!
    • A sabayon is poured over the split rotten egg.
    • And the pièce de résistance: truffle (summer truffle) is shaved over the plate, which has been filled with the dried grass that lines chicken nests.
    • The aesthetics of the dish are impeccable. The plate evoked a nest in which the rotten egg was found. In the center, a piece of interactive art. Splitting the egg, the pungent smell of truffle (I can only imagine how it will taste in black truffle season) was of a piece with the pungent smell of rotten egg. The yellow sabayon brought colour of the “yolk” halfway back to normality, symbolising a resuscitation of the dish. The dish evoked a rustic French farmhouse. The discovery of a rotten egg is usually an unqualified “bad thing” to happen, but Chef Goujon has given us happy memories of a delicious rotten egg, in his own way revaluing this “bad thing”, and has made a jewel of a common event in rural farm life.
    • Gastronomically, this dish was perfectly conceived. The egg was delicious, and the accompanying truffle milkshake and truffle brioche were infused with strong fungal flavors. Mushrooms and egg; two of the most common ingredients: but in the hands of a master chef like Goujon, they are transmuted into the highest art.

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  • Filet de rouget barbet, pomme bonne bouche fourrée d’une brandade à la cébette en “bullinada”, écume de rouille au safran (5/5)
    • With a saffron mousse on a spoon, mounted above the plate, a Catalan fish stew – the “bullinada” is poured in a concentrated stream onto the saffron mousse, filling the plate with one of the most complex fish stews, a hint of sour, tangy, fragrant, and submerging the mussels, onions, peppers, and potato stuffed with red mullet puree with the stew.
    • The red mullet was perfectly done. Soft and seared perfectly. I had taken a bouillabaisse eating tour of Marseille two years earlier, but was left disappointed by the quality of fish stew on offer. I could not believe what I was eating. This was by quite some distance, the best fish stew I had ever eaten, a true celebration of the Mediterranean terroir. I had found what I had not found in portside Marseille, in a inland mountain village two years later.
    • Most of the dishes I had eaten so far evoked a sense of place: The rotten egg, a French farmhouse; The courgette flower, the Mediterranean salad; this dish, the treasures of the Mediterranean sea; The oyster was the only one which seemed to come from a particularly fertile corner of Chef Goujon’s mind, a creation all of his own.

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  • Filet de Saint-Pierre contisé à la truffe mélanosporum, oreille de cochon et artichaut rôtis au jus de volaille, réduction acide-amer de Noilly
    • I did not have this dish: but it was a John Dory, stuffed with black truffle, with roasted aritchoke, and a darkly rich chicken jus. “Pork herb”.

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  • Vol au vent d’autan <<contemporain>> comme une capitelle aux morilles, crêtes de coq, rognons de lapin et sol l’y laisse, réduction de rancio sec crémée (5/5)
    • A vol-au-vent is typically a hollow puff pastry, but here Chef Goujon chose to represent the hollowness by putting four sides of puff pastry around a mound of morels, topped with a mushroom foam. To the side, local Musseron mushrooms from the Aude region, rabbit kidney, sweetbreads.
    • A thick cream was poured in the middle of the vol-au-vent, suppressing some of the mushroom foam, mixing with it, and seeping out from under the construction to mix with the savory offal ingredients. I was left licking the cream sauce after this dish was done.
    • Superb: again, multiple innovations in this dish: vol-au-vent as 4 sheets of pastry vertically stacked together with foam within, pouring the sauce downward to mix with the foam for interactivity (notice that the puff pastry sheets had minimal contact with the sauce, minimising sogginess), and coating the offal and mushrooms. Tremendous. A genius at work.

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  • Chariot de fromages, affinés surtout des Corbières… mais aussi d’ailleurs (5/5)
    • One of the most comprehensive cheesecarts I have ever seen; overwhelming almost in its comprehensiveness of Aude cheese. I had a number of first rate cheeses from this cart, though my transcription of the names is admitted spotty. If anyone can read the descriptions better than I can, please let me know.
    • From left to right: (Cow) Bleu de Driola [sic] (5/5, sweet and tangy) ; (Cow) Laguiole 18 months (5/5); (Sheep) Le Claoosoo [sic] Fromagerie Hyelzas (5/5); (Goat) Crottin (3.25/5); (Cow) Bamalou; (Goat) Cendrie Feume la Balneutier [sic]; [Goat] Crottin. (5/5)
    • Local cherry jam


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  • Faux citron de Menton délicatement cassant, sorbet citrus bergamote et kumquat du Japon du Mas Bachès, crème thym citron, sablé fleur de sel (5/5)

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  • Salut vielle branche: de genévrier, poires confites en chutney, fruits du mendiant et crème de baies de genièvre (5/5)

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  • Fausse cerise finement cassante, sorbet noyau, tiramisu mascarpone à la pistache sur un clafoutis sablé et jus de mélasse à la verveine (5/5)
    • Three desserts, all in the theme of evoking the original ingredient. A false Menton lemon, with bergamot sorbet, kumquat and cream with thyme and citrus, was indistinguishable from the real article for a split second when it was first presented.
    • Then, a cherry with tiramisu mascarpone, cherry compote, and shortbread platform.
    • Then, a chocolate branch, with juniper cream, and pear chutney. By its side, a tall glass of fruit sorbet.
    • All of these desserts were hugely imaginative, and delights to eat and behold.

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  • Les mignardises du Vieux Puits (5/5)
    • Chocolate caramel; orange chocolate
    • Lime basil macaron
    • Rhubarb tart with strawberry mousse

Le Parc Franck Putelat | Carcassonne | Jun ’14 | “ingredient Gestalt shifts”

2 Jul
  • Rating: 16.5/20
  • Address: 80 Chemin des Anglais, 11000 Carcassonne, France
  • Phone: +33 4 68 71 80 80
  • Price per pax (after tax + tip, some cocktails and wine): €100 ($136 at 1 EUR = 1.36 USD)
  • Course Progression (for me): cocktail – snacks – bread service – 1 amuse – 1 main – 2 desserts – mignardises. 
    • I ordered a la carte. 5 course, 7 course, and grand tasting options also exist
  • Value: 3.5/5
  • Dining Time: 210 minutes
  • Chef: Franck Putelat [wiki-biography]
  • Style: Classical with modernist touches
  • Michelin Stars: 2

Carcassonne is a beautiful city. Home to a medieval castle that was besieged during the Albigensian Crusades (to root out the Cathar heretics) in 1209, and annexed to the kingdom of France in 1226, today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (thanks to the 19th century restorer Viollet-Le-Duc, and an encyclopedia of medieval defences:

For example, there is your textbook moat, probably filled with fetid sewage from the castle’s inhabitants. Then the Narbonne Gate “castle entrance on the town side has an effective defense system with two portcullises […] The portcullises were operated from control rooms on different floors, with no communication between them, to guard against possible treachery by soldiers.” (A sign in the castle). “The roadway between the outer gate and the inner gate at the Narbonne towers twists first to the right and then to the left. This is not the result of a drunken engineer but is another deliberate defensive device, used at the gates of most fortified castles to make it more difficult for the enemy to charge the gate with any momentum” (Ina Caro, The Road from the Past, p82)

Then, there is the wooden hoarding, “a projecting wooden gallery installed on top of the ramparts as an additional defence during sieges. The beams supporting the hoarding slid into holes in the masonry made for the purpose during construction. Openings in the floor allowed arrows to be fired and stones to be dropped from above. [No, boys and girls, they didn’t drop hot oil! It was expensive and precious, not to mention a fire hazard to the wooden hoardings] The exterior wall also had loopholes for firing arrows” (A sign in the castle)

In addition…

“The top of the wall consists of embrasures (indentations or openings enabling the defending archers to shoot) and merlons (raised portions behind which the defending archers could stand for protection); together, they are called battlements. You will notice that the battlements are only on the wall’s outer face, thereby providing protection only for archers facing outward. Therefore if this outer wall was captured, besiegers would not be shielded from fire from the inner wall.” (Ina Caro, The Road from the Past, p80)

“These thirteenth-century towers do not go straight up and down; rather, they were made thicker at the base so that tunneling or mining through them was more difficult. One tower, for example, has walls six feet thick at the top and thirteen feet thick at the base. the slant also prevented movable assault towers from getting close to the wall”(Ina Caro, The Road from the Past, p82)

Ina Caro also contends that the moat, was a dry moat – a trench, which functioned as a no-man’s-land without protection from arrow fire from the towers and battlements. Was the moat wet or dry? – This is a job for the professional medieval historian to settle.

So why did they lose to the crusaders sent by Pope Innocent III in 1209? Because within 2 weeks the city ran out of water. The nearby river doesn’t pass through the old city.

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Chef Franck Putelat, a second-place winner at 2003’s Bocuse d’Or, became Chef of the Hotel de la Cite in Carcassonne (the only hotel within the medieval old city) in 1998, and set up his own restaurant in 2005, Le Parc. He was awarded his second Michelin star only two years ago, in 2012, and a good friend of Gilles Goujon, owner of L’Auberge du Vieux Puits in 45-minutes-away Fontjoncouse (subject of my next report). The restaurant also gained a 7 room boutique hotel in 2013.

We actually came to Le Parc first to stay. I was recommended this place by the bloggers at Smiling Lion Eats (highly recommended to read), since it was a 10 minute walk away from the Old City (the medieval castle), and the hustle and bustle of the tourist crowd. It was a very nice place to stay, full of chic furnishings, good for couples. At 7pm, after a good half-day exploring the medieval castle, we were hungry and decided to eat at our hotel restaurant.

Some general comments: I enjoyed the ingredient referencing. Chef Putelat really knows how to emphasise the commonalities and qualities of ingredients. To bring out the silken qualities of young foie gras, he uses it like silken tofu in a tom yum soup. To emphasise the meatiness of Tarbouriech oyster, he pairs it with beef tartare and a re-imagined frites. He visually plays with smoked haddock, makes it seem like white asparagus, which is the other passenger on the plate. And there is a Bocuse d’Or competition dish on the a la carte menu which studs springy lard into a classic beef filet, enriched with a perfect jus. It is classical cooking at its finest (it could have only been improved in one way – if truffles were in season, and thus more richly perfumed the dish).

He is also creative in presentation. To joke about his location in the most medieval of castles, he serves his bread on chain-mail “plates”. He serves his olive oil in test tubes. And he serves his alcohol in liquid droppers.

Yet there are points of improvement. My strawberry cocktail is served between lukewarm and cold, an insipid start to my meal. The desserts, while impressive to look at, can be dominated by a single taste (The pineapple strongly dominated the last dessert). And mea culpa, I had a string of misses with the local cheeses. I tried some dishes of the other set menus. They were very good, and probably were a more cohesive meal than my own selections. If I return, I would put myself in the hands of Chef Putelat completely.

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